What to see along the route of the Scaliger Walls
Verona is a city that knows how to surprise at every corner, and its Scaliger Walls are one of the most fascinating examples. They are a medieval hilltop wall enclosure, commissioned by Cangrande I della Scala in the 14th century, who expanded and reinforced the defences already begun by his predecessor Alberto I. An imposing work, built between 1321 and 1324, which still today stands on the city's hills as a silent testimony to an era when Verona was one of the dominant powers of northern Italy.
Walking along these walls means immersing yourself in a layered history: centuries of interventions, restorations and transformations can be read stone by stone. The moat, dug directly into the hilly tuff bank, provided the very material for erecting the wall, originally between 8 and 9 metres high. The towers, connected by a walkway that allowed defenders to move quickly, mark the route at a regular and scenographic pace.
The course of the wall is rich in architectural details that deserve attention. One of the most characteristic elements is the Scaliger "saw-tooth" workmanship at the corners of the towers: a building technique designed to ensure better adhesion between the various masonry, made with a mix of brick, stone and tuff. A distinctive sign of Scaliger defensive building, which can also be found in other structures in the city.
In 1520, the wall was further strengthened with the addition of an internal earth embankment and the construction of new rondelles â including those of San Zeno in Monte, della Grotta, della Baccola and delle Boccare â that adapted the defences to the new requirements of artillery. A nineteenth-century restoration, carried out by the Austrians, modified some towers, lowering and adapting them to new functions such as guard rooms and warehouses.
Along the route, it is worth pausing at the second tower, which houses a small sanctuary dedicated to the Madonna del Terraglio: an unexpected corner of spirituality set among the stones of an ancient military structure. Not far away, the Porta di San Gregorio, also turned over time into a chapel, tells how these spaces have changed vocation over the centuries.
The stretch from the fifth to the fourteenth tower offers particularly evocative glimpses: the wall follows the hilly ridge, with panoramic views of the city that amply reward the walk. In some places, the walkway is still accessible and allows you to walk a short stretch of the ancient walls, with original loopholes still visible on the sides.
It is fair, however, to inform the visitor that the conservation status of the structure shows some clear issues: spontaneous vegetation has taken over many surfaces, some sections are inaccessible, and vandalism has left its marks on several wall facings. This does not diminish the value of the site, but it is best to come prepared, with comfortable footwear and the awareness that this is an authentic experience â far from the more polished tourist routes â where history is encountered in its most genuine and imperfect form.
The Scaliger Walls are a stop off the most-trodden circuits, perfect for those wanting to go beyond the Arena and Piazza Bra and discover a more authentic Verona, the one that climbs the hills and preserves in its silences the echo of a glorious past. A walk that combines culture, nature and panorama: hard to ask for more.